Corey Thomas - Jaguar XJ6 Series III

I swapped the right rear tire with the spare tire as planned - the spare was an unused original style Pirelli on the matching rim.  I took an early lunch to get the car re-inspected and it PASSED the safety inspection so I'm happy about that.

Regarding the emissions, I was thinking about the coolant temperature sensor.  I tested the old and new ones on the stove before installing over the weekend.  They one performed as follows:

The relatively new one from the car (maybe I put this in 2-years ago):
100 deg - 2 kOhm
170        - .41
180        - .35
190        - .32
...however as the temperature increased it started shooting up to .5 kOhm.  Clearly a problem.

The new spare I had laying around:
100 deg - 1.1 kOhm
170        - .40
180        - .34
190        - .31
...and kept dropping and the temperature increased - I put this one in the car prior to my failed emissions test and could still smell the richness in the fuel

But the dirty old one I had performed better but not much different than the previous one:
170 deg - .38 kOhm
180        - .32
190        - .30
...and also kept dropping as the temperature increased.

So, I decided to fix it to no resistance by bridging the terminals of the sensor cable and in my estimation, basically a sniff test, the started running leaner.  Note that leaving the terminals open will result in full enrichment and the car will promptly shut off.

I'm not sure what this means: Are all my sensors bad; I there an ECU issue; is there still another source of over-fueling; or the fact that I use WaterWetter which is incredibly effective at lowering my engine temperature causing the CTS to continue enrichment?

Going in for second, and hopefully final, attemp at inspection - emissions and safety.

UPDATE: Failed safety inspection for left rear tire - little bit of steel belt showing through - but can just swap with matching spare tire. Also failed emissions. It's not running as rich as it was but will restore the relatively new rear cat from the Black Jag. If it doesn't pass the, then I will just wait until January, 2012 when it reaches it's emissions exemption - but that wait would suck.

UPDATE: Drove the car to work today and on my way back to pick up daughter from dance class, temperature was getting hotter and hotter. Car was spewing coolant from hose at water pump. Steering belt wet and is making that tough too. Going into McGyver mode with some coolant and duct tape.

UPDATE: Made it home while running heat full blast to keep the engine cooler. My child was surprisingly content.

After a long hiatus, I am now ready to finish putting the car back together. I had the head machine and cleaned. In preparation, I had to remove all the valves, springs and camshafts (I'll post pictures).

I had to put the car project on hold to do a (marriage saving) tiling/wood floor project on the house.

While (aggressively) sawing some metal pipe - to go underneath the cement I'm pouring by the fireplace for wires - my worked shook and the cylinder head worked it's way to the edge.

Then I heard the scraping-on-wood noise as it was starting to fall. It scratched my hand but thankfully it missed my foot.

Damage assessment: it looks minimal for now. I chip in the aluminum head.

We'll see how bad it really is when I'm driving. I may need to get it machined now if it introduced any warping.

- Repairing a broken cylinder head stud in a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III

When removing the head, my worst fears were realized of a cylinder head stud broke in the engine block.

What happened? A cylinder head stud got so corroded that it broke deep down in the block just above the thread

Why did it happen? Probably from a previous owner not flushing the coolant enough or using the wrong coolant - coolant provides anti-corrosion protection inside the block but loses this ability with age which is why it must be changed

How did I fix it? I used a Helicoil thread repair kit. I bought a few tools and modified some to extend their reach down into this cavity. The challenge was through a narrow opening at the top of the block and side access by removing a free plug:

Get access

• Removed the freeze plug to get side access to the area
• Be prepared for a lot of coolant spillage including the corroded gunk - I left a container underneath in anticipation
  

Went shopping (again)

• Bought a Helicoil kit to repair a 7/16"-20 thread
• Bought an 8pt (these are usually 6pt or 12pt) 5/16" socket for a 3/8" drive
• Bought a 29/64" drill bit

Drilling

• Modified the drill bit from a round shape to a square - sized to fit a 1/4" socket
• I mated the 29/64" drill bit to a 1/4" hex socket facing the wrong way
• I also mated a 1/4" extension to another 1/4" hex socket
• To join these two, I used a 1/4" hex screwdriver bit which I cut the ends off - tape held these parts together from sliding apart
• On the other end of the extension was a 1/4" drive to 1/4" hex adapter for the drill
• I used tape wrapped around the tap as a depth guide and a magnet to clean out the area

Taping and Helicoil Insertion

• Used a medium length 3/8" extension - the longer they are, the thicker they are which may not fit
• I inserted the extension in the top of the block and mated it to the 5/16" 8pt socket that I inserted into the side access hole - from the freeze plug
• I lifted that assembly then inserted the tap in the side access hole and mated that with the assembly
• From there, it was simply a matter of using a socket on the top
• The same was done for the coil insertion
• Again, I used tape wrapped around the tap as a depth guide and a magnet to clean out the area
  

Throughout the drilling and tapping, I would spray SeaFoam for lubrication. I would also occasionally back-out the tap a bit for clean-up.

The test with a stud was great but I did notice that it is not perfectly square - so what!

I'll take a break from the Jag for a bit and do some (marriage saving) home maintenance.

Regarding the Helicoil taps - they won't publish their size forcing you to buy a kit, labelling it as a special tap. I did buy a kit but I'm convinced that the Helicoil 7/16-20 STI tap is a regular 1/2-20 tap. The coil insertion tool's functionality could also have been replicated with on of my throw-away studs. The difference would have been $45 for the Helicoil kit versus $7 for a 6-pack of the coils only.

More pictures here: Fixing the broken stud

- Lifting the cylinder head on a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III

Here goes:

• Getting tools ready, extending opening of hood and propping open, and attaching my poor-man fender covers (cardboard) - rolled the cardboard the jack handle to give it a curve making it an easy task for the tape to hold it in place
  
• Drained coolant and subsequent cleanup since I missed the target - after mopping up the floor, I had a fan running to help dry it
  
• Disconnect a ton-o-stuff on both intake and exhaust sides - note the exhaust manifolds were disconnected while the intake manifold remain connected - man, this was a lot of stuff which I started to label - I eventually resorted to a lot of pictures
  
• Tied up all connections with nylon ties, removed the valve covers and the head bolts - one stud was broken/corroded in the block, another was stuck and would take some extra encouragement which didn't work so I ended up lifting the head with the frozen stud in place which I eventually removed with a stud puller and a lot of penetrant
  
• Broke the head-gasket seal with a bottle jack on each side - 1 between the lip on the block and the head (exhaust side) - 1 with a long piece of wood between the floor and the intake manifold
  
• After stacking wood under the head, one side at a time, I lifted the head onto two 2x4s cut to fit on the ledge in the fender walls and then waited for a friend to help me get it over to the workbench - the whole assembly head+intake was about 100lbs
  
• Three issues become apparent: Broken stud means head not clamped down properly; damaged head gasket; clogged catalytic converter

Lots more detailed pictures available here:

• Checking the compression
• Starting work
• Draining coolant
• Disconnecting intake side
• Disconnecting exhaust side
• Disconnecting head
• Lifting the head
• Inspection

Next up, fixing the damaged stud.

- Checking the compression on a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Series III

The symptoms that I have on the car are that it hesitates under load and lopes on idle - sometime to the point of cutting off or almost cutting off. It also shows signs of running rich.

I started by checking the compression to see if there were any big things to note. I did the following steps:

• Stuck a screwdriver in the flap for the Air Flow Meter (AFM) to allow air in (to be compressed)
• Stuck another screwdriver in place to force the throttle to be open
  
• Disconnect the starter motor relay and added a lead to jump it directly to the battery - this is how I rotated the engine to measure compression without having to worry about fuel supply or the ignition system

I did both a wet and dry compression test. The dry was simply plugging the guage in a cylinder and cranking. To do the wet test, I added a teaspoon of motor oil in the cylinder and re-ran the compression test - a big difference here indicates wear around the piston rings.

Here are my results:

1. Dry - 155 Wet - 170 (opened a beer and took a sip)
2. Dry - 147 Wet - 160 (took another sip of beer)
3. Dry - 95 Wet - 100 (finished the beer)
4. Dry - 153 Wet - 160
5. Dry - 158 Wet - 164
6. Dry - 146 Wet - 154
7. Re-test #3 - 95

Clearly I have head issues - most likely the head gasket.

Off with it's head...

More pictures here: Checking the compression

- World Class Driving event in Front Royal, VA, 2007

On May 22nd, 2007, I participated in a World Class Driving event. It was the introductory year so prices were relatively reasonable. It was a great opportunity to drive the following cars back-to-back - listed here in the order of my most favorite:

• Ferrari F430 - By far, my favorite car of the group with it's normally aspirated V8. Everything worked so well together from the usable and more upright seating position to the fabulous F1-style dual clutch transmission. It felt like a lot of work went into every detail even beyond the drivetrain - which cannot always be said of earlier Ferraris. In some reviews, people discuss how the car is great but hard to live with - rough ride and you never willing to park it anyway. For me it was pure adrenaline. My most memorable part was the exhaust note - especially that automatic blip while it matched revs for a downshift. Everyone was rev-happy when it was their turn. Driving and turning at speed really showed how nimble and light on it's feet this car was. The Manettino was set to race (not by me but by Didier Theys who rode with me). Man, I loved this car both the engineer in me and the passionate car guy.
  
• Aston Martin DB9 - This normally aspirated V12 car also had a paddle shift transmission but this was torque-converter based. Nevertheless it was a great drive. It provided a feel not too far from the Ferrari and was a rocket with it's own pleasing sound. The interior was also great, if not a little quirky. On my drive however, the car did start making a tinny thrashing sound - "Did I do that" in a Steve Urkel voice. I'm not sure what happened but it was de-commissioned for the rest of the day. I did appreciate some of the little things like the reverse direction of the tachometer. We did drive these cars somewhat hard within our constraints.
  
• Lamborghini Gallardo - Another great runner with a normally aspirated V10. It also had a great note. I wasn't a fan of the low-slung seating position and limited visibility but loved the exhaust note and the dual-clutch transmission.
• Ford GT - This supercharged V8 car was particularly special to me because I was tracking it's developed and have always been a fan of the original, Ferrari conquering, Ford GT40. Interesting features where the retro styled McIntosh stereo, which my dad would love, and the doors that included a portion of the roof. It was a 6-speed manual and driving it was not as satisfying as the Ferrari and Lamborghini dual-clutch paddle shifters but fun nonetheless. I did actually stall it once because 1st and 3rd were so hard to tell apart. 1st was a hard extra push to the left - apparantly, I wasn't the only one who had trouble with 1st in this car.
• Bentley Continental GT - This twin-turbocharged W12 (4 banks of 3 cylinders) was somewhat of a sleeper - as if a 12 cylinder engine was not enough, they twin-turbocharged it. It possessed lots of power and torque was really a great cruiser - which is what I was doing (I though a cop was following half a mile back). Interior touches that I liked were the diamond patterned seats but the chrome was overdone on the interior giving it a somewhat gimmicky quality - even though the materials were top notch. Some kids in a C230-k Sport raced up to catch me to drool at the car. They followed me back to the meetup place for photo-ops. For a lot of people, this was there favorite car of the day. Personally, I could feel the mass of this car and really do prefer lighter weight vehicles - not that this car was lacking in any ability to dance.
• Corvette Z06 - Last but not least - in the grand sense - was this normally aspirated V8. Wow did this thing have torque! It even had a comfortable upright driving position. The $100k+ difference between this and the Ferrari was in the refinement. My leg was burning from the heat coming of the transmission tunnel and the interior was unfortunately cheap - I think the new GM is working on this...slowly. These things were briefly overlooked when I would accelerate widening that grin on my face.

Overall, I found that I like the cars most had strong racing programs but also interior refinement. The Corvette actually felt more torquey than most but did not reward me with refinement when I was just driving it. I am a new Ferarri man. I have a lot more pictures in my album: World Class Driving.

At the time, I paid $795 for 30 miles in all six cars - 180 miles total. Not bad though I would much rather that be track time that public highways. They now offer 5 even more special cars but for a good deal more money.

- Accessories for Jaguar XJ6 Series I, Series II, and Series III

There are a few things that I wanted for the red Jag:

• 7" outer headlights as on the original Series I and non-US spec cars (DOT forbade the use of 7" headlights back then so Jaguar used a bigger chrome trim ring and employed a 5-3/4" bulb - now there allowed) - I bought this from a guy who was "breaking" (parting out) his car in England - cost me about $100 delivered including the buckets and all trim - compare US-spec Series III to the original Series I
  
• Thicker steering wheel - the standard steering wheel for this vintage was daintily thin. I bought a JDM (Japan Domestic Market) MOMO steering wheel with black leather and hardwood from eBay for about $150 delivered plus the adapter for another $75 - I actually bought two adapters where the second one does not require the rubber boot - I will resell the first one
  
• Wood shift knob for about $30 on eBay
• Pepperpot rims - for an unbelievable bargain of $150 delivered - they will need refinishing but are currently sprayed silver and will do until then - these were available on the non-US-spec top models - compare this to the Kent wheels that I have installed
  
• Pending - a push button starter to go where the cigarette lighter currently is - one frivoulous item
  

All of these are bought (except for the push-button starter) but not installed. I am not allowing myself to even think of installing them until the car is in strong running order.

- Status for 1986 Jaguar XJ6 Series III

Here's were things stand now with the 1986 Black XJ6

I drive it every once in a while. Among other smaller items, it's had the following done to it:
- New front and rear catalytic converters and associated piping
- New O2 sensor, air filter, plugs, wires
- New rear brakes including calipers and rotors (plus flushed whole system brake fluid)
- New headliner
- New water temperature sensor
- Oil change and coolant flush (really important for the cylinder head)

I had to pull a headliner backing board from a car in Maryland that was being parted out. While there, I also took the rear antenna motor and the rear headlights as spares. The board did crack while taking it out but that was an easy repair with some fiberglass resin.

Issues with this car are that the is a rust hole in the floor pan, the wood dash is flaking, front suspension bushing have play. I also need to replace the antenna motor. Also, the cassette (what's that) player no longer functions.

I do remember after spending a month working on the brakes and taking it out for a, ahem high speed, test run when some snot-nosed teenagers crossed 3-lanes to make a left exit of the highway. I was forced to slam my brakes. While in braking, I felt the back slightly start to slide to the right so I eased off and modulated the brakes to maximize braking force and maintain full-composure - this car is pre-ABS. The other car crossed within inches of my bumper. They continued driving, and I just put my head in my hands then continued driving. I was rewarded with thumbs up from other drivers who caught up and witnessed the whole event. The car felt really good and exhibited the legendary Jaguar handling. This was back in 2007.

I credit my ability to respond to my track time at FATT at Summit Point Raceway in my daily driver, 1998 Audi A4. Of course, after a full day including a spin-out, I found that one of my old tires was peeling on the sidewall. The pictures are from my most recent visit.